There’s Something Cool Happening in Uruguay

Plenty of people know about Tannat from Uruguay – the bold red wine known for hefty tannins – a great steak wine. (There are actually more cows than people in Uruguay!) But I just learned about Uruguay WHITE wines and guess what? They are freaking amazing!

During a Zoom class with Josh Greene, publisher of Wine & Spirits magazine, we tasted six Uruguayan white wines and I’m here to tell you – if you like white wines find these. Here’s what I learned and what I tasted:

Of the 77 grape varieties planted in Uruguay, 27% is Tannat. But there is a growing movement to plant white grapes like Sauv Blanc, Albarino, Chardonnay, Viognier and even Riesling. Uruguay was settled by many Europeans back in the day and they brought local wine varieties with them – including farming and winemaking skills.

All of the wines we tasted are imported into the U.S. and I always tell people: if you can’t find it at your local wine shop, it’s always worth asking if they can bring it in – you never know! (Wine.com is always a good source, too.) Let’s taste!

Lahusen Riesling 2023 ($25) This comes from a Germany family (where Riesling was born) and is Uruguay’s oldest bodega – or wine estate – founded in 1854. It’s richer than most Rieslings and interestingly, they age it in Italian amphorae – large, terra cotta or cement containers that don’t impact flavor, but allow micro-oxygenation, allowing the wine to breathe a little during aging. It’s dry, it’s got nice acidity – maybe less than your typical German or Austrian Riesling – and it’s fun, fresh wine that I want with roasted chicken, any kind of fish or shellfish or just some potato chips!

Viña Progreso 2023 ($26) Now, I used to luuuuuv Viognier. But then I started not liking it, because it’s often suuuuper floral, and smells like the CVS shampoo aisle and while I don’t drink shampoo, I imagine Viognier would taste like it. But! But but but – THIS Viognier was deeeeelicious! It had amazing acidity and an appealing, subtle saline note – it was almost savory. It’s the magical combo of climate and soil – and stainless steel fermentation and aging – that gives this Viognier its unique character. This wine will make anyone rethink Viognier. If you like Sauv Blanc or Pinot Grigio, find this and thank me later.

Traversa Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($16) This is a winery that was founded by Italian immigrants in1937. I expected some green pepper on this, only because I’ve noticed that on a lot of Chilean Sauv Blancs. And guess what – there’s no cat pee, either! Hurray! This is an easy-drinking Sauvie B that just doesn’t ask too much of anyone. It’s great quality, with green apple, citrus and some fresh herbs. Delightful!

Bouza Albariño 2024 ($28) Crafted by a Spanish family from the Galicia region (where Albariño reigns supreme!), this is a new-ish winery founded in 1998. I loved it – fresh lemon and orangey notes mingle with some orchard fruits, like pear and green apple and a teensy hit of spice, like white pepper to keep it interesting. It spends four months on the lees (spent yeast cells), which gives it nice weight and body – but it’s far from heavy or round. Yum yum yum!

Familia Deicas Atlántico Sur Albariño ($20) This one I knew I would like because I’d tasted it before with none other than Nico Deicas! I feel like the Deicas family is like the royal family of wine in Uruguay (their Preludio red blend is famously served by the president of Uruguay, and was famously the only non-Italian wine to receive the Grand Gold Medal at Vinitaly!) This beauty is all fresh lime zest, summer melon and a tiny hint of vanilla frosting. It’s a taste explosion, with medium body, and guess what? No oak at all – it’s all stainless steel.

Garzon Single Vineyard Albariño 2023 ($35) “Smells like money,” was my first impression after sticking my nose in the glass. It’s complex, fresh, reminds me of eating salted honeydew melon as a kid, backed up with lime zest. It’s got an almost chewy texture and I LOVE it. the structure on this baby comes, again, form Uruguay soil, climate and carefully grown grapes – no oak (in fact it’s made in cement tanks … I think the micro-oxygenation that concrete brings to the party helps build the structure in this wine.

So there you have it. As white wines continue to soar in popularity, outshining red wines lately, why not give these a try? What fun to taste these wines!

Leave a comment