
“Gambero Rosso” translates to “red prawn,” and it is the title of Italy’s most influential food and wine magazine. Each year, in addition reporting on the food and wine scene throughout Italy, Gambero Rosso does two very important things:
- They publish the Vini d’Italia, a book of reviews of – wait for it – 25,000 Italian wines, and;
- They mount a world tour of all of the wines that receive the coveted Tre Bicchieri rating.
The Tre Bicchieri tour rolled into Chicago recently, and it was one of the best yet!
My day started with a Master Class on the wines of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo with Marco Sabellico, editor of Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia.
Together with his team, Sabellico oversees tastings of up to 40,000 Italian wines each year. From those 40,000 wines, they narrow it down to 1,500 wines that have the potential to receive the highest rating of Tre Bicchieri (three glasses). From those, approximately 500 wines get the Tre Bicchieri Award.
“It’s a complicated job to oversee tasting and review of so many wines,” says Sabellico. “Each year there are new wineries, there may be changes in rules surrounding DOCs and DOCGs, there may be new grape varieties – but somehow we come together and complete it each year.”
Here’s what I learned in the master class:
Montelpulciano d’Abruzzo

First, let’s talk about Montepulciano. It is the name of a town in Tuscany, and you may recognize it in the name of another wine: Vino Nobile de Montepulicano. That wine is made from the Sangiovese grape. Confusing? Yes!
The main thing to know is that Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is the top red wine grape in the region of Abruzzo. Abruzzo is in Central Italy, on the east coast. It’s got both coastal areas and hilly, inland areas, giving it two clients: Continental and Mediterranean.
Montepulciano thrives in Abruzzo. It’s resistant to pests, thick-skinned and grows in many soil types, from clay to granite. The wines are just gorgeous. And you know what else? They are affordalicious, clocking in at between $10 and $60 a bottle (retail).
We tasted through nine wines in the Master Class, ranging from young, fresh 2024 wines to deep, powerful 2018 wines. (All wine pros geek out over tasting different vintages of the same grape.) These wines are intense – but not heavy. They were all fresh and balanced. Here’s a quick run-down of what we tasted – each of which, of course, received the Tre Bicchieri rating.
Not all of these are imported into the U.S. Talk to your local wine shop and ask them o point you in the right direction. You kind of cannot go wrong with any Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wine!
Pesolillo 2024 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2024, in the Chieti region of Abruzzo
Rooty tooth fresh and fruity! Huge cherry notes, some sweet dried tobacco, vanilla and dark chocolate. The surprise: this wine sees no oak. It spends four months in stainless steel and a year in the bottle before release.
Tenuta i Fauri 2024 Terre di Chietai Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Superiore Ottobre Rosso
Another beauty with no oak on it. This one ferments and ages in concrete vats. Cherry notes, dried herbs and freshness dominate and it’s delicious.
Tenuta Ulisse 2022 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOP Amaranta
This wine does see some oak (a mix of French and American). It had a richness from that oak that was delicious. Think vanilla, dark chocolate-covered cherries. Loved it.
Agricosimo 2022 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
Another no-oak wine, this one spent 2 years in stainless steel and a year in the bottle before release. It is very rich and powerful – but again, not heavy. This might have been my absolute fave of the entire tasting.
Pasetti 2022 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOP Riserva Tenuta Rossa
Beautiful notes of sour and ripe cherries, dried violets and iron (that note comes from the soil in which the grapes are grown).
Castorani 2021 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Casauria Riserva
This one was leaner and little more austere on the palate, but after 20 minutes in the glass, it opened up to reveal spicy cherries, some mineral notes and robust tannins. I wished for some short ribs or a steak!
Tenuta Terraviva 2020 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG Lui
As Marco Sabellico notes, “this one is approaching full maturity.” That is how well these wines age! You can of course drink them young and fresh, but this one was different. It comes form 45-year-old vines and had more crunchy, tart red fruit, backed up with spices and sweet dried tobacco. Definitely a food wine.
Fontefico 2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Riserva Titinge
Yum, yum, yum – this wine is intense. Layered with red fruit and savory notes like thick balsamic and even a note of Parmesan cheese. Very complex. Crazy good.
Lidia & Amato 2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG Riserva Colline Teramane
This was the finale and it was beautiful. Very savory and complex, with fruit notes plus balsamic, mushrooms, even sun-dried tomatoes. It had a creamy, silken texture. Delicious.
As you look toward your next wine choices, why not seek out some Montepulciano d’Abruzzo? It won’t break the bank and it will elevate anything from a simple cheese plate to a hearty stew or baked pasta dish. Saluti!
